Monday, February 27, 2017

ELDER JEFFREY R. HOLLAND, MEGA ADVERTISING, SHAMANISM, FEMALE MONKS, AND OLD HOUSES

Elder Jeffrey R. Holland came to Korea this week! Everyone was excited, especially all the members in Seoul who got to attend his meetings in person and possibly shake his hand. The rest of us in the South of South Korea got to watch a live broadcast which was tailor-made for all Koreans on Friday, and especially for young single adults on Saturday night.




Elder Holland is always a captivating speaker, and encouraged us all to be disciples of Christ, by showing love for other people. His message was optimistic and bright. Speaking to the Young Single Adults, he called them "Future Leaders of the Church", and encouraged them to get married, and not miss the opportunity to have a spouse and a family. When he and his wife got married, they had $300.00 between them. They still had schooling, finding an appropriate career, graduate school, raising children...They were always thankful that they got married at that time, and did not miss out on all the blessings they have enjoyed. He left us feeling renewed and uplifted.



This movie theater is showing "The Lego Batman Movie", and the characters hanging down from a string on the ceiling are advertising the movie. What are you supposed to do while you wait for the movie to start? Play with the Claw Machines, of course! I'm pretty sure they are a sort of gambling - the claw is meant to suddenly let go of the "prize" just when the person playing thinks they have it for sure! What a disappointment. Each play is l,000 won or $1.00. How much are you willing to pay for a stuffed Pokemon?

UPDATE on last month's Claw Machine Report



MEGA ADVERTISING

Wherever you live - there is omnipresent advertising: newspapers, magazines, television, radio, billboards, and every other possible way to market a product right before your eyes as you drive down the street or check out at the grocery store. Buy this product!! The advertising screams at you. 
However, if you haven't been to Korea, you "ain't seen nuthin' yet"!


First of all, the inside of all stores and businesses is dark. Why? Because every window and every door is covered in advertising. Banners are stuck to the outside of windows. The doors are plastered with more paper. If that's not enough, there is a bulletin board of sorts in front of the building with more advertising on it.





How many times does it say 50% off SALE? Blinds, awnings, umbrellas, boxes, 3D signs, banners on top of the windows, et al...



There is always an enticing vertical banner in the middle of the sidewalk, and often an employee standing out on the sidewalk sometimes with a microphone shouting details of the sale. Elder Fox and Elder Lee have a conversation in the rain.



Add neon lights and the arrow banners pointing to the main banner on the entrance door.



On this four story building, every single window is covered with a sign.



Notice the inflatable advertisement to the left of the missionaries and their umbrellas.



At night the inflatables are combined with lighting. Sometimes the lighting is combined with music. Sometimes there is a beautiful girl out in front with a microphone enticing customers to come in to buy make up, go to the restaurant, or take advantage of a great sale. Sometimes there are multiple women in costumes, dancing, and singing! The possibilities are endless.



This photo was taken in Seoul...but you get the idea.



This store is not really over-advertising, but I wondered what kind of store it was. Maybe they are selling pots for plants...or??

OLD HOUSES -

Yesterday we went on an outing to a new part of Korea (for us) to see some traditional old houses. There aren't many buildings existing that were here before 1900. Anything that remained pretty much got demolished during the Korean War. Exceptions are the old Buddhist Temples in the Southern part of the peninsula where North Koreans did not burn every single thing...and some old houses. 



Park Hadan (1479 - 1560) built a home here and lived as a hermit. Later, Park Jeong-Ju (6th generation ancestor of present owner of the home) built and expanded the home in 1824. 


The roof line is not very straight, but it has stood the test of time!



Interesting pattern...or no pattern?




The building technique of the roof is revealed: logs, small sticks across, plaster (mud) beneath the sticks, heavier wood on top, then ceramic tile and mortar. Some parts of the roof had one or two layers of tile. Some parts had up to eight layers of tile!



Main entrance to courtyard with Chinese letters over the door. The "house" is actually many buildings, arranged in a rectangular shape with space in the middle. The men (father and brothers)  lived in a separate building called a sarangchae and the women lived in a separate building called the anchae. There were separate little houses for the servants, and an outhouse outside for everyone to use.



I love the cantilever of the roof! I don't know the purpose - maybe to keep the rain coming off the house as far away as possible?



The outhouse is built adjacent to the rest of the house, but separate.




This photo shows the layout of some of the buildings with the courtyard in the middle.




Clay jars full of kimchi, soybean paste, red chili paste, and other food items that would not spoil were kept outside all year. The kimchi and other foods fermented, adding to the flavor.





 It was cold but still fun!




Old wall with overgrown vines and plants twisting through the roof tiles







 Even in winter, it was beautiful!



Showing more detail of roof - this room has ropes made of rice stalks, braided and knotted in between the logs to give the roof more strength.



Storage room (above) and wall (below) showing bamboo strips placed horizontally with mud caked over the top of the bamboo




In spring and summer, this is a garden!



Old tiles were used to patch up the wall.






What a fantastic adventure!



I LOVED this cute lady! Usually the "older" ladies won't let you take their picture and sometimes get mad, but she was agreeable. Keep in mind that I am 5'3". 


NEXT STOP UNMUNSA TEMPLE 

This temple was built in 560, during the Silla Dynasty. It is the largest in Korea with female monks, ("nuns"). There are 260 here, and no male monks. The women do everything, including gardening for the food, running all the religious ceremonies and programs, and administering all the other necessities of the temple. 



Brenda, Connor and his wife in front of the "weeping pine tree". The pine needles are normal, but the branches droop down to the ground. Legend is that a monk put rice wine in the soil. Connor (not his real name) and his wife take us all these cool places and we still don't know her name! His real name is Mr. Bae (we don't know first names) but we don't know any of her names. They don't know ours either - just Elder and Sister Georgie!





Rock wall with herringbone pattern




 The intricate paint detail is dazzling! There are artists specifically trained to do this type of painting on temples. They get up on ladders and work on one very small area at a time.


The bridge leads to a path where the monks can walk up to a "resting place".



This female monk was singing and chanting the whole time we were in this building. All of the monks have heads shaven. Their clothes are very baggy, so it's hard to tell that they are women...but they ARE ALL women.



Another view of the weeping pine tree







Paintings on the sides of the buildings tell stories of the Buddha.


There is a program called "Templestay" at most of the larger Buddhist temples. You can stay for two days and one night and have an authentic temple experience. 

I recommend you read the schedule before you sign up:


3:00 am - Temple Ground Chanting and Wakeup - The monk's day begins at 3:00 am with a ritual called "temple ground chanting". Monks walk around the temple compound slowly and chant to the beat of a wooden handbell to tell everyone it is time to wake up. Everyone gets up, washes and goes to the Dharma hall where they sit and wait for the morning service.

4:00 am - Dawn Buddhist Service - consisting of prostrations (kneeling prayers to the Buddha), bell ringing, and more prayers.

5:00 am - Buddhist Practice (Seon Practice or Meditation) - Optimal condition for meditation practice - the forest and clean air - you "enter concentration" and meet with your "whole self".

6:00 am - Breakfast
This is the prayer on the food:
"Where does this food come from? I'm not worthy to receive it based on my own virtue and practice. Abandoning all forms of greed, I accept this food to sustain my body for practice and to attain enlightenment. "

You think about the process of how every single grain of rice comes to you, be grateful for it and eat every bite, leaving nothing in your bowl. (Incidentally, all food at Buddhist temples is completely vegetarian. No animal products of any kind.)

7:00 am - Communal Work - Templestay participants usually wash the bowls from the meal, sweep the grounds, or weed the garden

9:00 am - Buddhist Practice - Walk slowly while practicing Seon meditation

11:00 am - Conversation over tea with a nun who lives a monastic life.

12 noon - Lunch

Lunch to 4:00 pm - Rest or visit a hermitage

5:00 pm - Dinner - You eat in a wooden bowl (baru Gongyang) , you don't waste even a speck of food, and you eat in silence to experience tranquility of mind.

6:00 pm - The four Buddhist instruments are sounded before the evening service. The Dharma drum, temple bell, wooden fish, and cloud shaped gong are sounded at evening time.

7:00 pm - You make 108 prostrations (kneeling prayers), and then make prayer beads or lotus lanterns. The 108 prostrations are to repent and wash away the 108 kinds of afflictions (past foolishness). After you make the lantern, you walk around a pagoda holding the lantern.

9:00 pm - Wash up and go to bed.



SHAMANISM

We often walk by this weird, dilapidated house on our way to various things... The house has an entrance with a flagpole. On top is a backwards red swastika, sign of a Buddhist temple. Underneath the flags, there are some artificial green tree branches, and a green ball and a soccer ball. 




The house has a mold problem, is pretty much falling apart and should probably be condemned, but I wondered if the balls meant it was someone's birthday. The balls stayed up for over a year, at which time I found out that if a doorway has balls hanging from it, it means that a Shaman lives there. The red swastika is another hint. Someone taught us that the red swastika is the sign of a Shaman, but we see them at every single Buddhist Temple.





Zoomed in on the balls, the bamboo flagpole, and the flags - the green branches are artificial and stay up year round.






Glancing down an alleyway on our way to work, we noticed a shaman was living in the yellow house with the green branches and balls. 


What is a Shaman? Shamanism is a folk religion, and Shamans can be male or female - persons who are the mediator between a human being and "Spirits". The Shaman can inherit the calling of Shaman from a parent, or can be "called" to the position by the Spirits. The Shaman can get rid of evil spirits around you, and can pray for good spirits to come. The Shaman usually wears an elaborate costume, sings, chants, plays drums or other musical instruments, and often dances until the frenzy of all the music, dance, and the emotion puts her/him into a trance. During the trance- like state the Shaman has hallucinations. Sometimes a Shaman can heal people - physically, mentally, or ??? They perform rites, or ceremonies, called "gut". (pronounced goot) where they get rid of evil spirits, dance, sing, go crazy, and maybe heal someone. There are 50,000 registered (and more not registered) Shamans in Korea. Below: picture of a Shaman at a "gut".







JUST WONDERING...

It rains a lot in South Korea. I always thought that the rain was a positive to clear the air, so that after the rain, it's clean and beautiful outside! The belief here is that rain is "poison". Each drop is full of chemicals, pollutants, dust from China, and toxic materials floating around in the atmosphere. ALWAYS carry an umbrella, because rain is really dangerous. In fact, if you forget your umbrella and you are walking around letting your hair get wet, you will probably go bald. 

If you see a man or a woman who is balding, go out and buy them an umbrella!




BACK AT THE OFFICE:

Do you see someone that "doesn't belong"?




NEXT WEEK = MARCH 2017!



Wednesday, February 8, 2017

KOREAN SUPERSTITIONS YOU NEED TO KNOW...SEOLLAL, JAGALCHI, NAMSAN MOUNTAIN, AND MORE

KOREAN SUPERSTITIONS YOU NEED TO KNOW

                                     
If someone calls you a pig face, it's a compliment! In Korea, pigs are a symbol of wealth and luck, and if you are fortunate enough to have a dream about a pig, it signifies more wealth and luck in your future. If someone has a dream about a pig, they usually run out a buy a lottery ticket. For this same reason, you rub the nose of a pig statue at a Buddhist temple, and you will be rich! I don't know how to tell you  to do it, but try to have  more dreams about pigs. 






Eat lots of sticky foods before an exam, like toffee and yut (a Korean sticky candy). Sticky foods helps the knowledge to "stick" to your head.



Conversely, don't eat anything slippery on the day of the exam, like miyukguk (seaweed soup). This could cause all the knowledge you studied so hard for to slip out of your head.


The number four is very unlucky - why? Because the Chinese word for 4 sounds a lot like the Chinese word for death. The superstition made its way to Korea, and now in Korean elevators, instead of a 4 for the fourth floor, many elevators have the letter F.




If you're fidgeting and shaking your leg right now, stop! You are shaking off all the good luck and wealth you would have had. Look at all the money this guy is losing.


MORE CURIOUS TREASURES from the folk museum:


Does this look like a thatched roof with a bucket on top?


This is actually a "raincoat" made out of rice stalks, the same thing Koreans used for thatched roofing. The basket on top is a rain hat. Koreans were very resourceful, making creative and useful things out of available materials.

Picture of "thatched" raincoat from old book:

Old man in rain hat:              




Old shoes - top picture right - the shoes are carved out of wood. Bottom picture - these shoes are braided out of rice stalks.

Below on the left is the black hat of a nobleman. To the right is a little hair net shaped like an upside down dixie cup. Before Korea was invaded, men had very long hair and considered it part of their culture and tradition. In fact, it was against the law for men to cut their hair. When the Japanese took over, they forced the Korean men to cut their hair in "western" styles. Korean men tried to hide their hair by putting it on the top of their heads, and twisting it into a "top knot" and then putting it in one of those little hair net cups. Then they would wear another hat - either the black with a large rim, or this one shown here that looks like a fancy folded napkin. 


Below is the most curious of all! In the summers, when Korea is very hot and humid, people would go to sleep and hug this "basket" in the shape of a large hot dog. As they were sleeping, the wind could go in and out of the holes in the basket as they held it in their arms. The wind going through the basket hot dog would keep them cool through the night.




SEOLLAL, THE LUNAR NEW YEAR 
is the most important holiday of the year. People used to dress up in hanbok, traditional Korean dress - but now mostly wear casual clothing. They get together with family, usually all meeting at the oldest son's home. The oldest son's wife has to do most of the cooking, housework, cleaning and clean-up, so some women are actually reluctant to marry an "oldest son" of the family, because they don't want to do all the work for the relatives every holiday!
Our first Seollal dinner was at the Cho family. They are a wonderful family and we enjoyed every minute!



L to R: Sister Kim, President Cho (Stake Pres.), Sister Barrow, and friend Ann.
Notice the bowl of clear, milky looking liquid on the right. It is a sweet rice drink (everything is made out of rice). It is sort of brown and opaque with little bits of rice floating around in it, and it is sweet and cold. The traditional food is made up of many many dishes, and it is a lot of work for the cook. The Confucian tradition is to set up a table displaying the ancestors' favorite foods. Then you pray to the ancestors and honor them. Then you eat the food. If you have a pig's head, it is nice to display it and then eat it too.



Sister Kim is an angel. She is always doing nice things for missionaries, and everyone else.


SEOLLAL #2

We are so lucky to have such nice friends. We finished the "lunch" at 4:30 pm, rushed home, and took a taxi to the next meal, "dinner" at 5:00. We were invited to Connor's house for dinner with his wife and two children. His daughter works in Seoul, and his son is attending University and studying, studying, studying.


The meal consisted of many different dishes, some small and some large. The small bowls with white stuff in them are "water kimchi" - it's not as hot as the red chili pepper kimchi and made with white radishes.

After dinner, the dessert was brought out - apples, tangerines, and several different rice cookies. 


Connor brought out an old book about Korean history, and we were enthralled.

Happy Seollal!


 SEOLLAL #3

The following day after church, another family, the Shins, invited us over for "Deok Guk". Deok soup is one of the traditional foods of Seollal. The deok (pronounced duck) is rice that has been beaten into a glutenous, sticky mixture, then rolled or cut into shapes to make noodles. The meal was very nice, very delicious, and a fun experience. 


THE MOAT

The diorama below is a mini model of Dongnae-Gu, in the year 1590. About six years ago, the city was digging a new subway station (very close to our apt.), and found some interesting relics: bones, weapons, swords, arrows, skulls with holes in them, and many long straight sticks.


Forget about the subway station - bring in the archaeologists! After further examination and excavation, they discovered that the subway station was right in the middle of the fortress moat! The moat had a stone wall going all around the fortress. It was full of spears, clubs, weapons of all kinds, and lots of bones.



At the time, castle or fortress moats were dug, fortified and then had many sharp sticks pounded into the earth at the bottom of the moat and sticking straight up, then filled with water. If a man tried to get across, he would get speared by a sharp stick. The bottom of the moat was filled with sharp sticks.



Suit of armor and metal hat found in the moat

There is now a museum under the ground in the subway station, exactly where the moat was! We were excited about this new "find" in our neighborhood, so decided to wander down the street. A couple of blocks and there it was - 
Dongnae Market, a traditional Korean shopping place.



I love to see what the women are selling, and what they are wearing. This woman is selling various invertebrate sea animals.


This vendor has many many fish to sell, some are being dried.




These plastic tubs are out in the open all day - full of various kinds of kimchi. Bottom left is the anchovy deluxe special kimchi.



This is the special deluxe seaweed - extra large - straight from the ocean!





This woman is drying the seaweed on a rack.



Before these fish are hung up for display, someone has to clean them, removing insides, etc. so that they are ready to sell!


Around the corner from the market was the old Dongnae Government Building.
We explored the grounds and went inside all the buildings.



Also, in our "neighborhood", they are knocking down lots of old houses and little businesses, with plans to build an entire "park" of huge high rise apartments. Many areas look like this - a giant junk heap! Sister Barrow and I went exploring through the junk heap one day looking for roof tiles.



 JAGALCHI - is the largest fish market in South Korea. Cruise ships docking in Busan send the tourists there to see the amazing number of fish for sale! 

 There are eight floors to this building, every square inch is full of something.




Thousands of mini shrimp. These are used in kimchi and add to the flavor as they ferment.


Many many many octopus!




Clams and sea snails



 Turtles, large fish, and one eel. Many people love to eat eel. There is one street called "Raw Eel Street", where the whole street is lined with restaurants serving raw eel dishes.

   
The prawns are tastier when their eyes are looking at you!


Outside by the ocean, there are lots of fishing boats, and lots of people.












These spiky things are sea squirts. We asked how they are cooked. Answer: peel off the sharp outsides and eat them raw with a little sesame oil and rice. Very healthy for you. (all the really weird foods are the "healthiest")



 Giant crabs



Hooray for Jagalchi! You can get any kind of sea animal or plant: dried, grilled, filleted, dead, alive, and RAW! There are tons of vendors outside of the actual market selling more and more.



YEONGDO BRIDGE

While looking at the ocean, we had the rare opportunity to see the raising and lowering of Yeongdo Bridge, the only "bascule" bridge in Korea (bridges that raise and lower to allow larger ships through). Yeongdo is a half bascule, as only half the bridge raises - every day at 2:00 pm for ten minutes. We were lucky to be right there at 2:00!







A parade of boats went through, then it was lowered until tomorrow.

AQUATIC FOUNTAIN SHOW - Next we ran off to the largest inside water fountain show in the world (?) I guess it's true??


Water comes out of the ceiling in different patterns. It also sprays out of the floor in different patterns. Add to that the lights changing all the time, and music. It was great.



These two friends are holding hands. It is socially acceptable for girlfriends to hold hands, mother and daughter, or boys who are friends or relatives. Almost everyone is holding on to someone. 


DO YOU EVER WORK, OR JUST SIGHTSEE?
It appears that we run around seeing and doing fun things, which we do on Saturdays. But we really do spend most of our lives with the missionaries in the Mission Office. We love them.


    This Elder is pretty tired. 

    This Elder is really tired. He works hard all day!


   This man is really tired. He can sleep anywhere!

It's Sister Cho's birthday - so bring in the pizza!  If you look at the pizza on the lower left, you may notice that the crust has little hamburgers all around the edge!


                             Missionaries are usually hungry.


We had the privilege of another visit to President Bae. He is smart and funny at age 92.



This woman is known as the "Daeshin Grandma". She knows all the missionaries, calls them frequently, loves visits from missionaries and everything about missionaries. She has lived in Busan for 50 years, and has been a big fan of missionaries for the whole time. Doesn't she look cute in the BYU sweatshirt?


NAMSAN MOUNTAIN - This mountain is a sacred place to all Buddhists, and has important historical significance. The Silla dynasty was founded in 57 BC and lasted 992 years, one of the longest lasting dynasties in world history.

When Buddhism became the king's religion, many people spent decades carving Buddhist images in mountains, caves; building stone pagodas and wooden pagodas, building temples and hermitages. There are many different ways to hike Namsan Mountain. The path we used had a multitude of surprising relief carvings, sculptures, pagodas, pieces of structures, parts of temples, and other buildings. You can't hike too far without seeing something significant. At the risk of being boring (another hike?) I will not comment and you can scroll through the pictures rapidly (except on a few).




These are tombs of the kings and queens. They are in clusters throughout the city of Gyeongju. Most of them have never been opened. They are not only sacred, but you don't want to be responsible for letting out a lot of evil spirits.





Buddhas without heads - After the Silla dynasty, the Jeoson dynasty came into power with strong Confucian ideals, among them no idol worship.  Therefore, the Confucians went all around knocking heads off the Buddhas.







Pieces of a Pagoda

















Little piles of stones stacked up for good luck


The end of a great day! Off to celebrate at our favorite restaurant!